My best trip: Australis Expedition. Days 4 & 5

Day 4: Penguins on Magdalena Island

The fourth day on board began with a particular feeling. After several days navigating through the remote channels of Tierra del Fuego, we knew we were approaching the end of this extraordinary expedition. Still, there was one more very special activity before the final disembarkation: a visit to Magdalena Island, one of the most famous places in the Strait of Magellan thanks to its enormous penguin colony.

That morning I woke up early, perhaps a little earlier than usual. When I looked out the window of my cabin, the landscape had changed once again. The steep mountains of the fjords were now behind us, and the scenery was opening up into wider views typical of the Strait of Magellan. The sea looked calm and the sky carried those pale, cool tones so characteristic of the far south.

As on previous days, I headed down to the main lounge for breakfast. There was a slightly different atmosphere among the passengers: a mix of excitement for the activity ahead and a bit of nostalgia knowing that the journey was coming to an end. Over coffee and breakfast, many passengers shared their favorite moments of the trip—the landing at Cape Horn, the hike at Wulaia Bay, or the impressive navigation among the glaciers the day before.

Shortly after breakfast, the captain announced that we were approaching Magdalena Island. From the deck, it was already possible to see the small island on the horizon, crowned by its characteristic white lighthouse and surrounded by the waters of the strait. The ship anchored at a distance and, as on previous excursions, we began boarding the zodiacs for the landing.

The ride to the island is short but exciting. As the zodiac approaches the shore, the first penguins begin to appear walking among the rocks and grassy hills. It is a charming and almost surreal scene: first dozens, then hundreds, and soon thousands of penguins moving freely across the island.

Magdalena Island is home to one of the largest colonies of Magellanic penguins in the entire region. During the breeding season, tens of thousands of these birds arrive here to nest and raise their chicks. As soon as you step ashore, you realize you are entering a world completely dominated by wildlife.

The visit follows a clearly marked path leading toward the lighthouse. Along the trail, penguins walk calmly from one side to the other, entering and leaving their nests dug into the ground. It is important to remain on the path so as not to disturb their habitat, but even so, the experience feels incredibly close.

During the walk it is impossible not to smile at their clumsy yet charming movements. Some seem completely indifferent to the presence of visitors, while others pause for a moment, looking curiously before continuing their path toward the sea.

The walk to the lighthouse takes about 20 to 30 minutes, depending on the pace. From the top, there is a beautiful view of the strait and of the penguin colony spreading across the island. It is one of those places where you naturally stop for a few minutes, simply observing the wildlife and enjoying the moment.

After walking the trail and taking many photographs, we slowly returned to the landing point to board the zodiacs once again. Back on the ship, there was a general feeling of satisfaction: we had just experienced one of Patagonia’s most iconic natural spectacles up close.

Once aboard, the ship resumed its navigation toward Punta Arenas, the final destination of the journey. During the last stretch, many passengers relaxed in the panoramic lounge, reviewed the photographs taken during the voyage, or simply watched the landscape gradually change as we approached land.

Lunch was served on board as usual, and little by little the atmosphere began to take on a tone of farewell. Conversations revolved around the experiences of the past few days: incredible landscapes, stories of explorers, walks through subantarctic forests, and majestic glaciers.

Later in the afternoon, the ship approached the port of Punta Arenas. From the deck we could see the city slowly appearing on the horizon. After several days sailing through almost untouched landscapes, the sight of the town marked a gradual return to civilization.

There was still time to relax, enjoy dinner, and share a few final conversations before the journey came to an end.

 

 

Day 5: Disembarkation in Punta Arenas and the End of the Expedition

The fifth day arrived almost before we realized it. After several days sailing among fjords, glaciers, and nearly untouched landscapes, the expedition was coming to its end. I woke up early, as had already become a habit during the trip, and the first thing I did was walk over to the window of my cabin to look outside.

At that early hour, the ship was already navigating the waters of the Strait of Magellan, slowly approaching its final destination: Punta Arenas, in southern Chile. After several days surrounded by wild nature, the first signs of civilization began to appear on the horizon—small boats, the coastline gradually coming closer, and eventually the first houses of the city.

I went down to the main lounge for the final breakfast on board. There was a special atmosphere among the passengers, a mixture of calm and nostalgia. Over the past few days, the ship had become a small shared world among travelers from many different places, all united by the experience of exploring one of the most remote regions on Earth. As we enjoyed our coffee and breakfast, many people talked about their favorite moments of the voyage: the landing at Cape Horn, the hike in Wulaia Bay, the impressive glaciers from the previous day, and of course the visit to the penguin colony on Magdalena Island.

After breakfast, it was time to prepare our luggage and slowly say goodbye to the ship and the crew. The expedition team provided final instructions for the disembarkation process, which would take place once the ship docked at the port.

From the deck, I could see Punta Arenas getting closer and closer. The city holds a very particular place in this part of the world. For centuries it was one of the most important navigation points in the Southern Hemisphere, especially before the opening of the Panama Canal, when ships traveling between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans sailed through the waters of the Strait of Magellan.

Gradually the ship approached the pier and finally came alongside the dock. It was time to disembark and bring this experience to a close. Before leaving, many passengers took a moment to look once more at the ship and the surrounding landscape. There was a shared feeling among everyone on board: this had been much more than a cruise. It had been a true expedition through Southern Patagonia, visiting some of the most spectacular and remote places on the planet.

When my turn finally came to walk down the gangway, I paused for a moment to take one last look at the ship. I thought about everything we had experienced over these days: the incredible landscapes, the winds of Cape Horn, the silence of the glaciers, and the wildlife we had encountered along the way.

With that mixture of gratitude and amazement that great journeys leave behind, I stepped onto the pier in Punta Arenas, knowing that this voyage through the Patagonian channels would remain one of those experiences remembered for a lifetime.

 

 

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